Product Specification of Geographical Indication “青森 (Aomori)”
＜Interim translation＞
Seishu / Sake
Ⅰ Matters relating the characteristics of liquor which is essentially attributable to its geographical origin
- (1) Characteristics of liquor
The sake of Aomori generally has a moderate umami flavor derived from rice, a mellow texture, and a clean aftertaste.
In particular, Junmai Ginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu exhibit fruity aromas reminiscent of melon or apple, which harmonize with a refreshing sweetness and umami, while also presenting a sharp and tight aftertaste brought out by acidity and bitterness.
The mellow texture and clean aftertaste of Aomori sake pairs well with Aomori’s specialty seafood products, such as fresh sashimi of flounder and scallops, and “namako-su” (vinegared sea cucumber), which is essential for New Year’s dining in the region. - (2) Essential attribution of its geographical origin to characteristics of liquor
A. Natural factors
- A. Natural factors
Aomori Prefecture is located at the northernmost tip of Honshu and faces the Sea of Japan to the west, the Tsugaru Strait to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the east. It encompasses the vast Mutsu Bay between the Shimokita and Tsugaru Peninsulas. The central part of the prefecture is traversed north to south by the Ou Mountains, which include the Hakkoda mountain range, as well as majestic mountains such as the World Natural Heritage-listed Shirakami Mountains and Mount Iwaki, also known as “Tsugaru Fuji.”
These vast, lush mountains throughout the prefecture store snowmelt and rainwater, fostering abundant and high-quality underground spring water that is essential to sake brewing in Aomori.
In addition, the region has a complex maritime and geographical environment with significant climatic differences by area: in summer, the Pacific side experiences many cold and humid days due to the easterly wind (Yamase) with fog, while in winter, moist and cold air masses collide with the Hakkoda Mountains, bringing heavy snowfall to the Sea of Japan side.
Considering this climate and natural environment, since 1960 (Showa 35), Aomori has been engaged in developing sake rice varieties suitable for its cool climate.
As a result, The sake of Aomori is brewed using rice suitable for the climate and plentiful high-quality water. Through the Ginjo-style brewing that utilizes the severe cold of Aomori winters for slow fermentation at low temperatures, the resulting sake generally possesses umami from rice, a mellow texture, and a clean aftertaste. - B. Human factors
According to the oldest existing records, sake brewing in Aomori was already being conducted around the Keichō era (1596–1615). During the reign of the second lord of the Hirosaki Domain, Tsugaru Nobuhira (1607–1631), the Port of Aomori was opened as a rice shipping port to Edo, attracting merchants and sake brewers from various regions. From Ōmi (present-day Shiga Prefecture), a sake brewer named Ueharaya Izaemon was invited to the domain and began brewing under the protection of the domain authorities, widely passing on the brewing techniques of the Kamigata (Kyoto–Osaka) region.
Furthermore, during the reign of the fourth lord, Tsugaru Nobumasa (1656–1710), it is said that large-scale land development led to the production of nearly 300,000 koku (a traditional measure of rice volume), which is equivalent to approximately 45,000 metric tons of rice. At the time, rice from Aomori was highly valued in the Kamigata region, comparable to rice from Akita and Shōnai.
Also, the water of the region was praised by Tsugaru Nobumasa’s retainer, Nomoto Dōgen, who remarked, “The small streams of Sotogahama and Aburakawa Town (present-day Aomori City) are lighter by seven monme (an old Japanese unit of weight) than the water of the Uji River. If one were to brew sake with this water, one would obtain a sake of great distinction.” Thus, the Hirosaki Domain, blessed with high-quality and abundant rice and water, and a cool climate, had favorable conditions for sake brewing.
Around the same time, the Kitamae-bune (northern-bound trade ships) that connected Ezo (present-day Hokkaido) and the Kamigata region began calling at the port of Aomori, and sake from Aomori began to be exported to Ezo. Many sake brewers in Aomori used merchant names typical of the Kansai region, such as Ōmiya, Osakaya, Mikuniya, Echizenya, Naraya, and Hyōgoya, and used brewing tools characteristic of Kansai style, indicating that brewing techniques from the Kamigata region had been introduced.
In addition to high-quality and abundant rice and water, the introduction of sake brewing techniques from the Kamigata region and trade with Ezo via the Kitamae-bune further boosted the development of sake brewing in Aomori. It is even said that during the feudal era, most of the major capitalists in the Tsugaru region were sake brewers.
In the modern era, in 1926 (Taishō 15), a Brewing Department was established within the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Research Institute (now the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center, Hirosaki Institute), and technical training was carried out through a public-private partnership. After the founding of the Aomori Sake Brewers Association In 1953 (Shōwa 28), a “Technical Committee” composed of brewing supervisors from sake breweries and researchers from the prefectural institute was established. Since then, various initiatives have been undertaken to pass on and improve sake brewing techniques, such as technical training sessions, study sessions comparing commercial sake made from Aomori-grown rice and sake from other prefectures, and sensory evaluation sessions held by the Seijōkai, a group composed mainly of young brewers.
Furthermore, starting in 1960 (Shōwa 35), the Aomori Prefectural Agricultural Experiment Station (now the Aomori Prefectural Industrial Technology Center, Agricultural and Forestry Research Institute) began developing sake rice varieties suitable for Aomori’s cool climate. In addition, the prefectural institute studied the brewing characteristics of the sake rice developed by the Agricultural Experiment Station, leading to the creation of many original sake rice strains from Aomori, including Kojōnishiki, Hōhai, Hanafubuki, Hanaomoi, Hanasayaka, and Gin Eboshi. Notably, “Hanafubuki,” which has now become the standard sake rice of Aomori Prefecture, is known for its stable yields and ease of cultivation. Sake brewed from this rice has a rich flavor with a concentrated umami derived from the rice.
- A. Natural factors
Ⅱ Matters relating to ingredients and production method of liquor
- (1) Ingredients
- A. Only rice harvested in Aomori Prefecture (rated as third grade or higher under the Agricultural Products Inspection Act (No. 144 of 1951)) shall be used for rice and rice koji.
- B. Only water collected within Aomori Prefecture shall be used.
- C. Only ingredients for "Seishu" stipulated in Article 3, item (vii) of the Liquor Tax Act (Act No. 6 of 1953).
However, among the ingredients for seishu stipulated in Article 2 of the Enforcement Order of the Liquor Tax Act, ingredients other than alcohol, which is limited in the case where the weight of alcohol does not exceed 10% of the weight of rice, including rice koji, among ingredients, shall not be used.
- (2) Production method
- A. It shall be produced within Aomori Prefecture according to the sake brewing method stipulated in Article 3, item (vii), of the Liquor Tax Act.
- B. It must meet the requirements for manufacturing method quality listed in the right column of the table in paragraph (1) of the Quality Labeling Standards for Seishu Manufacturing (National Tax Agency Notification No. 8 of November 1989).
- C. In the process of sake brewing, sake shall be stored in Aomori Prefecture.
- D. Bottling shall be completed within Aomori Prefecture with containers planned to be delivered to consumers.
Ⅲ Matters relating to management for maintaining the characteristics of liquor
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In order to use the geographical indication (GI) “Aomori”, the liquor that uses the GI is required to be confirmed by the following control body (hereinafter referred to as “the control body”) pursuant to guidelines for work implementation, prepared by the control body as to whether the relevant liquor satisfies “1. Matters relating the characteristics of liquor which is essentially attributable to its geographical origin“ and “2. Matters relating the raw materials and production method of liquor” by the time the relevant liquor is shipped to places (excluding places subject to the provision of Article 28, paragraph 1, of the Liquor Tax Act) from its brewing place (including places deemed as brewing places with the permit to produce liquor by the provisions of Article 28, paragraph 6 or Article 28-3, paragraph 4 of the Liquor Tax Act).
Name of control body：Geographical Indication Aomori Management Council
Address：1-3 Yanagawa, Aza Aburakawa, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture
Telephone：017-764-0040
Website：http://www.aomori-sake.or.jp/
Ⅳ Matters relating to liquor classes
Seishu /sake (Article 3, Item 7 of the Liquor Tax Act)
